I say this every year – I can’t believe how fast 2017 has whizzed by. The last 12 months have been full of even more new restaurant openings than I’ve had hot dinners. For my last review of the year, I thought I’d visit a western suburbs favourite, that for me encapsulates summer and Christmas – feasting on seafood, by the water’s edge.
Mosmans sits above the calm waters of Mosman Bay and from our table by the window, we look over the Swan River to yachts and sleepy pelicans perched on the jetty. The classic, understated dining room doesn’t distract from the river views.
The jetty has been around in one form or another for over a century, the restaurant for 30 years. First known as Meads, a popular haunt for ‘WA inc’ characters, the former Smith’s Boatshed became Mosmans in 2009.
A mix of local and international drops make up the wine list and there’s no need to splash out on an extravagant bottle, as premium wines are available by the glass from the Enomatic Wine Preservation System. A smooth Harewood Estate pinot noir is Chef’s tipple of choice.
I opt for a summery berry martini, to get me into that festive spirit.
For entrée we decide to have it all. Seafood platters are very popular at Mosman’s and the hot seafood share plate ($89) is a perfect size for two or three. We enjoy crisp market fish tacos in corn tortillas, with a fresh tomato & avocado salsa and mild jalapeño sour cream. Seared scallops, sitting plump on a bed of wakame seaweed, are perfectly cooked. I get no hint of spicy Cajun flavours from the Cajun prawn skewers, but the grilled cuttlefish is silky smooth and today’s grilled market fresh fish, Goldband Snapper, is buttery soft.
This generous platter also features a steaming bowl of chilli mussels cooked in a fragrant tomato sauce. The juices are made for mopping up with slices of thick-cut bread. Hand cut chips are certainly no afterthought.Crisp, fluffy and cooked to a perfect golden brown, they’re dangerously moreish dipped in a creamy cornichon aioli.
Children are well catered for and welcomed and Little Chef is very pleased with his fish and chips. He’s not adventurous enough to try the kid’s seafood platter, made up of market fish, prawns, scallops and chips.
It’s not all about the seafood dishes at Mosman’s and our meaty mains both hit the spot. Chef’s 300g bone in rib eye ($49) is perfectly pink, served with creamy whipped potato & onion, broccolini, and a red wine jus.
Pork collar ($46) isn’t a cut of meat often seen on a menu and the sous vide cooked pork is covered with lashings of maple glaze. The rich, porky meat is deliciously soft and a touch fatty, only adding to the flavour. Tucking into a slab of pork collar is like noshing on ribs without the bones or sticky fingers. On the side is roast pumpkin, broad beans and chorizo. I relish this sweet and porky dish. The only let down is the crackle garnish, which isn’t crunchy at all.
Just to test our struggling stomachs, we order two desserts to share. Apple mousse ($16) is not very mousse-like. Served with tart lemon curd, vanilla crumble, meringue and fresh granny smith sorbet, the main component is a bit of a letdown. Mousse should have an airy, light texture and this was far too thick.
The strawberry panna cotta ($16), on the other hand, is wibbly wobbly perfection. It is beautifully plated with crème fraiche, strawberry coulis, elderflower syrup and a graham cracker soil, giving it some crunch.
The locally sourced fresh seafood is the star of the show at Mosmans, though their meaty dishes almost steal the limelight. Mosman’s casual, yet classic ambience lends well for a romantic dinner or a special group gathering, if you’re willing to push the boat out.
At a glance
15 Johnson Parade
Phone 9383 3388
■ Opening times
Lunch from noon
Dinner 6pm till late
value for money 3
■ Style – Modern Australian/Seafood
■ Wine – A mix of affordable
and premium wines from all
around the world.
■ Head Chef – Alex Lim
■ Venue Manager – Jamie Fisher
■ Feel – relaxed and classy
■ Wheelchair access – Yes
Entree – $4.50 to $26
Seafood Platters – $79 to $159
Main – $34 to $49
Dessert – $16 to $40
■ All in all – an elegant spot for
seafood lovers, on the banks
of the Swan River.