Restaurant Hyun, Claremont

Restaurant Hyun, Claremont

Restaurant Hyun Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

I was intrigued when I heard about Restaurant Hyun, a new modern Korean and French fusion diner in Claremont. There are strong French influences in Vietnamese cooking, though I wasn’t aware the same could be said for Korean food. The combination of French and Korean is certainly unchartered gastronomic territory for Chef and I. Can kimchi really marry seamlessly with French flair? We are about to find out.

We enjoy a warm welcome by our waiter, though the minimalist décor of the dining room leaves me feeling a little cold. The entry, which could serve as a funky bar-style dining spot, is packed with empty glasses and feels more like a storage area. Packed with busy tables, the cottage-style dining area lacks soul – or perhaps that should be Seoul?!

The small wine list is constantly evolving. Chef’s Plantagenet Three Lions shiraz is has a peppery, blackcurrant aroma and Chef notices it’s not served in a red wine glass. I choose a citrus driven Willow Bridge Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from WA’s Ferguson Valley region. The crisp drop compliments fresh Asian flavours well.

Restaurant Hyun, Claremont

Rather than rice laden traditional dishes, the French influence and cooking techniques lend to a lighter style of dining and interesting flavour combinations. I wonder if it would be more accurate to say the cuisine is more Korean-European? Kimchi, a chilli-spiked Korean staple of fermented vegetables, features throughout the menu. Their kimchi arancini is an Italian-Korean hybrid and a green tea scallop ceviche even has Peruvian origins.

The sautéed mushrooms ($14), is a beautifully plated entree. The classic, though modern fine dining style of plating certainly borrows from French cuisine. The enoki, shiitake and shimeji mushrooms, are served in a mushroom consommé, along with an earthy mushroom and cashew mash, smooth pumpkin mousse, pickled baby courgette, labne, and a drizzle of truffle oil. A spoon would have been handy, to fully enjoy the tasty consommé, a French-style clear soup.

Restaurant Hyun, Claremont

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32 Restaurants That Have Closed in Perth

Pic Cred: Tim Mossholder

For the best part of the last decade, Perth has been all about the latest brand spanking new café, bar or restaurant. While this dining boom has been going on, there has been many venues quietly closing their doors.

With recent high profile closings, I realised that about 10% of the spots I’ve dined at in the last 5 years have closed. There’s lots of places that I never even made it to before they closed their doors, like Greenhouse, The Terrace Hotel, Gogos, and The Witches Caldron. I was probably the only person in Perth never to enjoy their garlic prawns!

So why are all the restaurants closing?

Restaurants close all the time. It’s the nature of the dining scene. But what we ‘ve been seeing in the last 18 months are a lot more businesses failing than usual and failing fast.

There is a huge oversupply of restaurants in Perth. There is simply too many seats and not enough bums to fill them. Last year, when the Trustee, Fuyu and Restaurant Amuse closed their doors I thought that there would be a slow-down in new openings, but there’s still a new café, bar or eatery opening every 5 minutes. Hat’s off to these restaurateurs taking a punt – they are very, very brave!

Customers complain about the high price of eating out in Perth. This is a valid reason for people dining at home. If you look carefully there is definitely quality, value for money dining still to be had. Hospitality workers put in the hard yards, particularly the kitchen teams. I’ve seen the blood, sweat and tears, not to mention ridiculous amounts of overtime. They deserve to be paid fairly and well. The margins in any hospitality business are tight. It’s no wonder they have to hike their prices to try to break even, due to sky high rents, wage bills, quality produce and other overheads.

Chefs and other hospitality staff are spread very thin, so staffing issues can easily mess with quality and consistency. Chef often finds it difficult to find good kitchen staff, which is a Perth-wide problem. I know a few restaurant owners that had amazing restaurants, with schmick fit outs, and a really good concept, but just didn’t find enough quality staff to realise their dream.

There’s those restaurants that have renovated or rebranded, those old stalwarts that just didn’t keep up with the times and then the places that were excellent, but couldn’t survive in a climate of fast “Uber Eats” style home dining. The brunch trend is sure to have contributed too, with many people opting to dine and socialise over cheaper, non alcoholic brunches than going out for a more expensive dinner.

Closed Restaurants in Perth

Here’s a nostalgic list of just some of those Perth restaurants gone, but not forgotten. Where do you miss?

1. FuYu, Nedlands A Mod Asian favourite by chef David Coomer is now Lawleys Bakery.

2. Wok St Chow House, Northbridge When I walked by a few months ago the building’s frontage was being demolished and the restaurant, which was also formally Darlings Suppa Club, was closed.

Closed Restaurants in Perth

3. Suburban Table, Mosman Park Still run by Chef Josh Prosser, now South East Larder, a modern Asian take away.

4. Barque, East Fremantle the ex-mod Asian spot is now buzzed about Cook and Mason.

Closed Restaurants in Perth

5. Celtic Kitchen, Joondalup this casual café didn’t last very long at all, then it morphed into Lemongrass Thai Kitchen. The building is currently up for lease.

6. Stix Bar, Burswood this classy little restaurant was too much of a hidden gem, concealed amongst the apartment blocks between Crown and Optus Stadium. I miss their French Martinis!

Closed Restaurants in Perth

7. Pata Negra, Nedlands before FuYu, Chef David Coomer’s Spanish joint was a favourite of ours. Now Lawleys Bakery. David now has his own truffle farm in Manjimup.

8. Chophouse, Perth CBD We loved Chophouse, but it was hit by the mining slump on the terrace, now it’s home to a British gastropub, The Butchers Arms.

9. West at Ku De Ta, East Perth One of the most spectacular implosions in recent times. West and Ku Dining have been closed indefinitely, while The Deck (the more casual bar) is still open. The thing that struck me most about the venue, was the lack of floor to ceiling river views. We really loved the food at West. The cost of parking and ticket clock watching, coupled with a remote location didn’t help it’s cause.

Restaurants Closed in Perth

10. Shiro, Perth CBD This tasty Japanese overlooking leafy Central Park has been closed for some time.

11. Mattisse, Scarborough Every time I went to Mattisse it was empty! It was the biggest victim of the Scarborough Beach redevelopment. I think it opened about 4 years too early.  Now it’s gone back to it’s pre-millennium roots as the Lookout pop-up bar. Another of the Reid family’s venues, The Breakwater at Hillarys, is on the market.

Closed Restaurants in Perth

12. Wild Duck, Nedlands This delicious fine diner which moved to Perth from Albany quietly closed a couple of years ago and is now casual Mexican, Santa Fe.

13. Health Freak, Joondalup This venue changed to The Healthy Plate Café once it made the move to Lakeside Joondalup and that has now re-opened as trendy Tiago Kitchen.

14. Alphabet Soup, Various This pop up restaurant by one of our favourite Perth Chefs Mellissa Palinkas enjoyed a popular run at cafés all around Perth. Mellissa is now busy co-owner and Head Chef of Young George. Pop up’s come and go, but we particularly loved Alphabet Soup!

15. The Brown Fox, West Perth Now the British styled Mayfair Lane, where the pub grub is a little bit fancy – their stake tartare is to die for.

16. Cookie Dough Biscuits, East Fremantle This cute as a button café on the George Street strip became Alder & Co. Now known as Ari & Esmay – their High Teas look scrumptious.

Restaurants Closed in Perth

17. Yocal, Fremantle  was a typical, hippy-chic, eclectic Fro café. Found just off the cappuccino strip, it’s now known as Duck Duck Bruce Café.

18. Hippo Creek, Hillarys Not only did the popular steakhouse close in Hillarys, but also it’s Subiaco and Waterford restaurants. Now it’s home to chain Hurricanes Grill. I miss the massive Assagai meat skewers… drool!

19. Restaurant Amuse, East Perth Perth’s finest fine diner closed it’s doors in 2017. Chef surprised me with a wedding anniversary dinner at Amuse and it was superb. Owner and Head Chef Hadleigh Troy has now opened a café in Vic Park – Hampton and Maley, which I hear is outstanding and I can’t wait to try it!

20. Kustom Cupcakes, Lathlain The decadent cupcake bakery is long gone. I miss their chocolate coated Oreo and Reece’s peanut butter cups.

Restaurants That Have Closed in Perth

21. Park & Vine, City Beach At Empire Village, wasn’t around for long. When we dined there, we were the only table, which sadly didn’t make for a very enjoyable atmosphere.

22. The Wine Store, East Fremantle  We had a good brunch here years ago, but haven’t made the trip back since it became Young George, co owned by Chef Mellissa Palinkas (previously Head Chef at The Cabin) and a certain Mr Broadfield. Young George looks seriously delicious and has been on our to-try list for far too long.

2013-08-29 11.45.58

23. Gooseberries Café, Kensington Now the cosy cottage is home to The Little Banksia and their brunches look as tasty as ever!

24. Snags & Sons, Leederville We were sad to see the posh dog spot go, but the ever so yummy Spanish Pinchos, has more than made up for it.


25. Hopscotch, Roleystone was a gem in the Perth Hills, now under new ownership, it’s been stepped up a gear as the Naked Apple Cider House. Great food, drinks and grounds to explore for the kids.

26. Ace Pizza, Highgate was a cool lil spot with dark lighting, comfort food and seemed to tick all the boxes. This venue has had a run of bad luck with Ace Pizza becoming the short-lived Rockefeller, maybe Italian eatery “No Menu” can turn this around?

2013-08-21 18.13.57

27. Plenty Thai, Perth CBD This casual Asian spot hidden down Shafto Lane was my go-to pre concert spot to grab a cheap n cheerful bite to eat before heading to Perth Arena. Now Fifteen Soi Shafto Thai Bistro.

28. Beluga, Claremont Chef and I loved to dine at Beluga (waaay back in 2013). The classy spot was opened by ex West Coast Eagles Dean Cox and Andrew Embley. Now Miss Chows.

2013-05-20 10.21.07

29. Naked Fig, Swanbourne This eclectic spot overlooking Swanbourne Beach closed long ago. Now it’s much more light and bright as Shorehouse, which incidentally, now has different owners (The Kailis Group) from when it first opened.

30. Basq, Currambine. I was SO SAD when I heard this northern suburbs eatery had served it’s last meal. We always enjoyed their quality offering and in my opinion it was one of the only great spots to dine north of Hepburn Avenue. The venue is currently empty.

Restaurants That Have Closed in Perth

31. Guylian Belgium Chocolate Café, Perth CBD. This sweet café was only open for about a year, not even enough time to write up my blog about it!

32. Shipping Lane, North Fremantle. This Leighton Beach eatery had the best of both worlds… top notch sushi coupled with a mouth-watering Mod-Aus menu. Now Freemans Restaurant.

Restaurants That Have Closed in Perth

What can we do to stop this madness?!

We all have our favourite little independent restaurant or café in Perth. Support them. Forget about the chain steakhouses and cafes. Don’t dine at the “It’s OK” place or “the foods average, but you get heaps for your money” eatery. Book a table at the little guy’s place, the person who is passionate about their offering and serves amazing food! We need these restauranteurs and Chef-Owners to stay in business for the future of Perth’s dining scene.

Something that can be said for the hospitality industry is that it never stands still. It’s a constantly evolving thing, that is changeable to the economy and consumer trends. With so many venues competing for your dining dollar, one thing is for sure, it’s survival of the fittest in Perth right now!

Note – This will be an ever growing list, which I’ll be sure to update.

To add…

The Byrneleigh, Nedlands

Hermosa Cantina, Wembley

Urban Bowl, Perth CBD

Zephyr Restaurant, North Beach


Tiago Kitchen Joondalup

Tiago Kitchen Joondalup

Joondalup is getting a little bit trendy! I’d longed for my local area to get some cool café spots like what’s enjoyed in the inner city suburbs of Perth. Newbie Tiago Kitchen joins the likes of Paper Avenue and Gipsy Boy as good spots to grab a coffee in J-town.


Open just a few weeks, Tiago is absolutely killin’ in on Instagram. I have to admit, it was the impeccably styled photos that lured me in for a coffee. Found in the very heart of Joondalup, the interior is totally on trend with clean while walls, soft grey, black and pink furnishing and lush indoor pot plants. There’s a relaxed atmosphere, with plenty of seating and space.


The coffee is good, I was on the fence a little about having something sweet to go with it, but their Gluten free offering of a brownie or bliss balls didn’t quite tempt me. Their other fresh bakes looked really scrumptious.


Little Chef ordered a milkshake. He’d have happily had a mega shake, and I was tempted to see just how decadent they were, but you know…too much sugar + kids = trouble!


Little Chef also enjoyed a big home-made pork and fennel sausage roll, which had wonderfully flaky pastry (sob!) and came with a generous apple slaw.


Tiago is a cool new addition to Joondalup, and I’ll be sure to check out their brunch offering soon.

Tiago Kitchen Joondalup

More on Tiago at

Find Tiago at 2/129 Grand Boulevard & Reid Promenade, Joondalup.

The Guildford Hotel

The Guildford Hotel

The Guildford Hotel Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

The Guildford Hotel has been a beloved local icon since the 1880s. The heritage-listed watering hole has been sitting proudly on James Street, until it was gutted by fire in 2008, sitting derelict and decaying until 2016. It’s doors finally reopened two years ago and we paid a visit on its 2 year birthday!

The Guildford Hotel

I was blown away by the stunning restoration. The hotel is contemporary, while also being sympathetic to the old building’s character.

The Guildford Hotel

Features from the original building can be seen everywhere. Exposed convict-made bricks, old fireplaces and even the giant charred jarrah beams that once supported the second floor, still remain as a reminder of the not so distant past.

The Guildford Hotel

Sit in the light and airy main dining area inside or in the large outdoor courtyard. There’s plenty of space upstairs too, where there are endless nooks to explore and you can enjoy a wonderful view of Guildford from one of the many verandas.


Being a pub, beer lovers are spoilt for choice with 18 beers on tap. There’s a good selections of wines, ciders and sprits too. The menu offers lots of pub favourites, with a focus on BBQ, burgers and share food. To start we chose the Guildford’s famous cheeseburger spring rolls, which sound a bit odd, but they are delicious! Served with a creamy “awesome sauce” – goodness knows what’s in that (but it does taste awesome!).


My carnivore Dad chose the sticky Albany pork butt ($27) from the pitmaster menu which also features low n slow brisket, ribs and more. I was eyeing that up, but happened to be also going to a BBQ restaurant for my tea that night. Dad let me taste a bit of the pork, which was incredibly tender and was smothered in finger lickin’ Carolina sauce. All Pitmaster dishes are served with slaw, potato salad and pickles.


I opted for something lighter, but no less delicious, the Jerk salmon Nicoise salad ($28). It was brimming with crisp green beans, chunks of potato, boiled egg and zingy capers. The salmon was nicely cooked and not as spicy as I’d expected it to be.


Little Chef chose Southern Chicken strips, chips and salad from the kids menu, mainly as I’m a meanie and won’t let him have KFC! haha


We worked off our lunch with a vigorous game of ping pong!


The Guildford Hotel is an impressive venue. Generally you can walk in, but bookings are recommended for larger groups of four or more. We had no problems finding a table on a Saturday. Though we did arrive a little before the noon lunchtime rush. It’s a beautiful spot, with delicious pub fayre. I’ll be back again I’m sure.


Find more info on The Guildford Hotel here.

Silks Crown Perth


Silks Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Crown Perth has a tremendous selection of dining options and best of all, you can take the whole family along. I headed to their award-winning high end Chinese restaurant, Silks, to check out their family dining offer. During the July school holidays (2nd to 13th of July) children eat free at Silks restaurant, Monday to Friday.


Little Chef, my dear friend Jenny and I were invited to dine in it’s opulent dining room to check out its menu offerings – from handcrafted dim sum, lip smacking barbecue dishes, succulent  seafood and lots of noodle and rice dishes. The kids menu is mighty tempting too!

Silks Crown Perth

The kids eat free deal means one child can eat for free, either at lunch or dinner, with each adult. The adults can order from their a la carte menu or the $55 ultimate menu, which provides great value for money. Jenny enjoyed the banquet, while I had a gluten free option of delicious sautéed meat and veg in lettuce cups. 


The GF choice isn’t massive at Silks, as most of their sauces and marinades contain gluten. My main of crispy skinned chicken and rice was tender and tasty.


The complimentary kids meal consists of vegetable spring rolls, prawn crackers, sweet and sour pork and special fried rice. Their meal was served at the same time as our entrees. Little Chef is fairly adventurous for a nine year old and he loved the sweet and sour pork, which he tried for the first time. And little one’s don’t need to worry about using chopsticks, though Little Chef had fun giving it a go! Kids-sized cutlery is provided.


Jen had quite a feast of Satay lamb cups, vegetable spring rolls

Silks Crown Perth

and pork and prawn buns – and that was just to start.

Silks Crown Perth

The  banquet mains consisted of wok fried local beef fillet with a honey pepper sauce, sweet and sour fish fillet, stir fried seasonal vegetables with ginko nuts, wok fried WA squid in black bean sauce and fragrant jasmine rice.


The dishes were fresh, tasty and there was certainly plenty to eat!

Silks Crown Perth

Little Chef’s was stoked with his dessert of coconut and lime sorbet, mango coulis and some Easter eggs (as we dined in April). We were far too full for dessert! 


Kids under 12 years old can eat free at Silks lunch and dinner Monday to Friday from 2nd to 13th of July. One free child under 12 per adult (minimum spend applies). Children will receive a Silks Kids Meal which usually can be purchased separately for $20.

For more info… 

Silks Crown Perth

Café Poste Guildford


I found a gorgeous little gem of a coffee spot, hidden away in a garden centre in Guildford. Café Poste opened in early 2018 and is found at the old Guildford Post Office, part of which is now a garden design and collectables centre.


The hole in the wall Parisienne café has a limited brunch menu, with French Toast, baguettes and croissants, as well as some scrumptious cakes and fresh bakes (including a few gluten free treats) in their cabinet.

Seating is mainly alfresco, right amongst all the lush plants and flowers. There are also some tables indoors, the Old Post Office providing some lovely nooks to sit in, which are full of character.


We place our order at the window. The friendly barista even asked how warm/hot we’d like our coffee, which is very good.

Café Poste Guildford

And their teas are top notch. I supped on a herbal Ruby Tea Silk Road blend of green tea, rose petals and more.


My mum enjoyed a “special” coffee with almond milk from their larger than life French barrista. He was lovely to chat with and a real hoot!


My Mum and Little Chef shared a pretty strawberry cheesecake. They both agreed it was delicious!


Afterwards, we had a wander around the immaculately presented garden centre, where there’s plenty of gardening inspo if you’re into succulents, indoor plants or something more classic.


There’s loads of pots and other collectables too.


I have a feeling that Café Poste won’t be a hidden gem for much longer! The charming little café has a lot of heart and is well worth checking out!




East Village, Westfield Whitford City

East Village, Westfield Whitford City

The shiny Westfield Whitford City dining hub has nearly been open a whole year. I’m slowly working my way around some of the restaurants there. East Village, found next to Whitfords Brewing Co, offers American favourites from the East Village district of New York. Think Ruben sandwiches, mac n cheese, burgers, pizza and more. The restaurant is modern, crisp and a good spot for a casual pre movie dinner and some drinkies.

East Village, Westfield Whitford City

Our food arrives promptly. Chef really enjoyed their “Dirty Burger”($20.90) on a brioche bun. A nicely charred double beef patty, indulgent maple bacon, fried onion, melted cheese and there’s even lashings of baconaise (bacon flavoured mayo) for the piggy lovers out there.


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Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Piggy Food Co. Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Originally appearing as a pop up restaurant in 2014, Piggy Food Co soon made a permanent home on the bustling North Fremantle strip. The small bar has a Southern Californian food offering, featuring the type of easy to eat comfort food that’s found right on the border of the US and Mexico. Here, it’s ok to make a piggy of yourself. Cutlery is optional, but napkins are absolutely essential!

Piggy Food Co is the epitome of Freo chill. We’re given a warm welcome and encouraged to sit wherever we like. We can grab a high table in the industrial-style bar adorned with unique piggy artworks. Or sit out in the beer garden, surrounded by green succulents and shaded with umbrellas. During the day we find a relaxing spot for a bite to eat with family and friends. By night it takes on more of a cosy small bar feel.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

If you love craft beer, with a side of dude food – Piggy Food Co is the spot for you. There’s an ever changing draught selection of local, interstate and international beers from small independent breweries. Chef chooses a south west favourite, from Colonial Brewing Co. The “S’wine” list is short and sweet, though not without some interesting choices. I enjoy a glass of fruity Alkoomi SSB, also from Margaret River.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

I order food at the bar, where the furniture has been made by multitalented co-owner and Head Chef Max Kordyl, with locally salvaged materials. The engaging, friendly staff are only too happy to have a chin-wag and offer us suggestions of the best menu picks. There’s even a special grilled cheese menu for those with the late night munchies, well after the kitchen has closed.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Pork is very much the star of the menu, with pork covered fries, pork burgers and pork tacos. The local produce driven menu offers other choices too. Everything is made in house, from scratch, with the exception of their burger buns and ice cream.

Saucy BBQ chicken wings ($10) are simply scrumptious. The tender wigs are served with a blue cheese sauce or creamy ranch dressing for dipping. If you’re feeling brave, add a kick to the wings with a generous squirt of hot sauce.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Nicely charred grilled mini corn on the cobs ($5) are delicious, tossed in a little smoked paprika and garlic.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Loaded “Hog Fries” ($14) are topped with plenty of pulled pork, cheese, salsa fresca, house BBQ sauce and a dollop of sour cream. These fries last a matter of minutes, we should have ordered two serves. The boys are such food-hogs! The topping isn’t gooey enough for my liking, I would have liked to see copious amounts of melted cheese smothering the meaty fries.

Piggy Food Co, North Fremantle

Chef couldn’t say no to the pork-tastic “Whole Hog” burger ($20). This soft ciabatta bun is jam packed full of flavours from a spiced chorizo patty, mouth-watering pulled pork, crispy bacon, cheese, slaw, salsa fresca, smoked chipotle mayo and house BBQ sauce. All that makes for a huge burger to try to fit it in your mouth! Chef only just manages to devour it all.

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The Vault, Kalamunda


For over 30 years I’ve been visiting The Vault. First, in it’s previous incarnation as the local Commonwealth Bank. From starting my dollarmite account when I was little, to the shiny and new restaurant it is today, it has always felt like a hub of the community sitting proudly on the leafy Haynes Street. The recently opened Italian-style eatery has been transformed from a drab bank to a airy modern restaurant with its patio overlooking Haynes Street.


The Vault is open seven days for breakfast, brunch, coffee and cake, lunch and dinner. Little Chef and I stopped by with my parents for lunch. It’s clear to see that the spot is still a hive a activity in Kalamunda.


And where is the actual bank vault? The old vault, complete with secure door, is now home to the restaurant’s wine cellar.


There is a mainly WA vibe to the wine list, including a very fine Saracen Shiraz. My Dad enjoyed local beer from The Bickley Valley Brewing Co. too.


The Italian lunch menu has mainly pastas, salads and pizzas to choose from. There’s a huge pizza oven in their kitchen and take away gourmet pizzas are also available. My Dad chose the classic lasagne, very reasonably priced at just $22, with a cheeky bowl of chips on the side ($6.50). I pinched a few of the hand cut chips, which were deliciously crunchy!


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Garum, Hibernian Place Perth

Garum, Hibernian Place Perth

Garum Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

First, the trail blazing Brookfield Place, a hub of cool eateries and bars arrived in the CBD. Then Perth was positively spoiled with the State Buildings dining precinct. Now, Hibernian Place has opened in the city’s east end. Here, the stunning five star Westin Hotel seems to have sprung up out of nowhere and with it has brought a whole host of trendy restaurants and bars.

We headed to one of the most buzzed about spots, Garum, found in the heritage listed Hibernian Hall. The face of Garum is familiar, celebrity Chef Guy Grossi, of Melbourne’s Florentino Grill. What he has brought to Perth is not your ordinary Italian. Specialising in the traditional food of ancient Rome, the 120 seat diner has components like lucaniaca sausage, hand cut pastas, farrow and the restaurant’s namesake, garum (a Roman fish sauce) on its menu.

Garum, Hibernian Place Perth

The immense dining space boasts the original high timber ceiling, exposed brickwork and timber floors, giving the feel that Garum has been around for much longer than a few weeks.

Garum, Hibernian Place Perth

We’re seated under the vine covered wall and look over Garum’s wine list, which also takes inspiration from the Romans, listing varieties by colour. There’s “white” and “yellow” wines, white being refreshing and light, while the yellows are richer and fuller. Equally, reds are divided into “Red Blood”, “Purple” and “Black Wine” types. The wine list is WA heavy, with a sprinkling of Italian drops. I choose an Italian San Martino Prosecco, which has a lovely dryness. Chef opts for an earthy Silverstream Pinot Noir from Denmark.


Many ancient recipes are used, including the Roman sourdough, which we start our meal with. On the side is moretum, a herb and ricotta cheese spread, that ancient Romans liked to spread on their bread.


Guy Grossi, temporarily in Perth to open his first venue outside of Victoria, is painstakingly looking over each dish that leaves his pass until Head Chef Mario di Natale takes over the reins.


I find the raw kingfish Crudo ($20) cut too thick for my liking. The fresh fish is full of flavour, topped with barley, and complimented with the freshness of sorrel and cucumber, along with garum.


The delicate quail ($22), is brined and then grilled with honey, garum, fennel, currants and pine nuts. Tender morsels of meat are spot on, making it a delicious dish with a real peasant feel.


After our plates are cleared Chef orders another glass of the pinot. His glass is replaced, though it sits there empty for some time.

Chef enjoys the Amatriciana pasta dish. At $24, it’s reasonably priced. You can have a light lunch and glass of wine at Garum without having to blow your budget. The bowl of thick spaghetti-like pasta, bucbatini, is cooked perfectly al dente. The pasta, which is made in-house, is smothered in a lick licking sauce of simple flavours – pancetta, tomato and chilli, giving it a subtle bite.


Perfectly pink Akady lamb cutlets ($45), have a beautifully charred crust. The lamb is a little fatty, but bone-nibbling delicious, served with parsley, capers and anchovy. Sautéed radicchio is too bitter for my taste, even with a squirt of grilled lemon.


Now, to dessert. The brand spanking new restaurant is absolutely heaving with a fully booked lunch service. Our mains are cleared, but we aren’t offered the dessert menu for a good 20 minutes or more. Chef’s waiting on his second glass of red, which is still MIA. After trying to make eye contact with a waiter for what feels like an age, finally I wave one down and request the dessert menu. He is very apologetic about the wine and does not charge us for that.


The globi ($16), small doughnuts with poppy seeds, have a rustic feel. Unlike traditional doughnuts, they are not particularly sweet or fluffy, with a more bread-like texture. The honey ice cream provides moisture and sweetness to this tasty dessert.


A little disappointed by their gluten free menu offering, or lack there-of, I have a bowl of honey ice cream and chocolate sorbet. 


Garum is full of well-cooked Roman classics, made with top West Australian produce. Once the service is polished I’d definitely return. If you love pastas that are the real deal, Garum is the spot for you.

Garum, Hibernian Place Perth

At a glance

■ Garum
Hibernian Place
480 Hay Street, Perth
Phone 6559 1870
■ Opening times
Mon to Fri, 6am until late
Sat to Sun, 6.30am until late
■ Rating
food 4
service 2.5
ambience  4
value for money 3
■ style – Modern Italian
with a Roman focus.
■ wine – mainly WA drops,
with traditional Italian wines
from the region of Lazio.
■ Chef – Mario di Natale
■ Owner – Guy Grossi concept, Westin manage
■ feel –bustling and classy
■ wheelchair access – yes
■ cost –
Entrée – $4.70 to $22
Pasta – $24 to $28
Mains – $42 to $65
Dessert – $16 to $22
■ all in all – Soul warming
mod-Italian classics. Patchy
service, brilliantly different wine list.